Engineered Garments and the Language of Asymmetry

Engineered Garments has built its reputation on subtle irregularity. In footwear, this often takes the form of asymmetry: shoes that look like twins in the box but reveal small mismatches when worn. The approach began with a 2013 Vans Vault pack that combined canvas and leather panels in uneven ways. Since then, across collaborations with several footwear brands, the same theme has appeared in three forms: through materials, colors, and details.

MATERIAL ASYMMETRY

1. New Balance 990v5 (2019)

Engineered Garments released three tonal versions of the New Balance 990v5 in grey, navy, and black. Each pair used an uneven mix of smooth leather, nubuck, suede, and embossed textures across the panels. The result was a monochrome shoe where the left and right feet did not match exactly. The project was distributed globally through New Balance and select retailers.

MATERIAL ASYMMETRY

2. Vans Vault Era Gore LX (2022)

In this release, the Vans Era was reworked with canvas, suede, and leather panels arranged differently on each side of the shoe. Elastic goring replaced the laces, allowing the model to be worn as a slip-on. The collection was introduced in neutral colorways including black, white, and tan, with one black pair released exclusively through Nepenthes.

COLOR ASYMMETRY

3. Vans OTW Slip-On 98 (2025)

This collaboration was based on the Vans Authentic, modified into a slip-on with elastic under the tongue. Each pair combined two colors so that the left and right shoes were different. One version used red and navy, another black and blue. The uppers were made of sturdy canvas, with traditional white midsoles and black foxing tape. The release took place in August 2025 through Vans OTW stockists.

COLOR ASYMMETRY

4. HOKA ONE ONE Hupana Pack (2018)

Engineered Garments produced multiple versions of the Hupana running shoe. Some featured gradient fades where left and right shoes shifted in different directions, others used color schemes referencing national flags, and two combined polka-dot print on one foot with plaid check on the other. The models retained HOKA’s performance midsole and were released through Nepenthes stores.

DETAIL ASYMMETRY

5. Converse One Star (2017)

The Converse One Star appeared in four tonal suede colorways: black, navy, olive, and white. Each pair incorporated four different versions of the One Star logo, with no two sides of the shoes matching. This subtle variation distinguished the collaboration from standard One Stars available at the time. The release was part of Converse’s First String line and distributed internationally.